 Contents
of this Page
Hippodrome
. Dikilitas
(The Egyptian Obelisk)
. Burma
Sutun (The Serpentine Column)
. Orme
Sutun (The Constantine Column)
Sultan
Ahmet Camisi (Blue Mosque)
Ayasofya
(Hagia Sophia)
. Architecture
. Mosaics
. Iconoclasm
Yerebatan Sarayi
Topkapi
Sarayi
. Life at
the Court
. The
Harem
. The
Harem of the Sultan
. Yeniceriler
(Janissaries)
. Tugra
(Monogram of a sultan)
. Sultans
and the Caliphate
Suleymaniye
Mosque
. Sinan
(c.1491-1588)
Kapali
Carsi (Grand Bazaar)
Misir
Carsisi (Egyptian Bazaar
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Part 2
Highlights of Istanbul |
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| HIPPODROME |
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| The original building of the
Hippodrome was built by the Roman Emperor
Septimus Severus in 203 AD when he rebuilt
Byzantium. Constantine the Great reconstructed,
enlarged and adorned it with beautiful works
which were brought from different places of the
Roman Empire when he chose Byzantium as his new
capital. Although
there is not much left from the original building
except the Egyptian Obelisk, Serpentine and
Constantine Columns, according to the excavations
carried out, the hippodrome was 117 m / 384 ft
wide and 480 m / 1575 ft long with a capacity of
100,000 spectators. It is said that one quarter
of the population could fit into the hippodrome
at one time.
During the
Byzantine period, the Hagia Sophia was the
religious center, a place which belonged to God;
the palace belonged to the emperor; and the
hippodrome was the civil center for the people.
Chariots drawn by
either 2 or 4 horses raced here representing one
of the four factions divided among the people.
Each faction was represented by a color. Later on
these four colors were united in two colors; the
Blues and the Greens. The Blues were the upper
and middle classes, orthodox in religion and
conservative in politics. The Greens were the
lower class and radical both in religion and
politics. One of these political divisions ended
with a revolt which caused the death of 30,000
people. This revolt was named after people's
cries of "nika" which meant
"win" and this Nika Revolt took place
in 531 AD.
The central axis
of the hippodrome was called spina and the
races took place around the spina. The races used
to start by the order of the emperor and the
contestants had to complete seven laps around the
spina. The winner was awarded a wreath and some
gold by the emperor.
The hippodrome was
destroyed and plundered in 1204 by the Crusaders.
After the Turks it lost its popularity and
especially with the construction of the Blue
Mosque, the ancient hippodrome changed its name
and became At Meydani (Horse Square) a
place where Ottomans trained their horses. The
only three remaining monuments from the original
building are the Egyptian Obelisk, the Serpentine
Column and the Constantine Column.
Dikilitas (The Egyptian Obelisk)
It was originally
one of the two obelisks which were erected in the
name of Thutmose III in front of Amon-Ra Temple
in Karnak in the 15C BC. It is a monolith made of
granite and the words on it are in Egyptian
hieroglyphs which praise Thutmose III. The
original piece was longer than today's
measurement of 19.60 m / 64.30 ft which is
thought to be two thirds of the original. It was
broken either during shipment or intentionally to
make it lighter to transport.
The Roman governor
of Alexandria, sent it to Theodosius I in 390 AD.
The obelisk is
situated on a Byzantine marble base with
bas-reliefs. These reliefs give some details
about the emperor from the Kathisma and
races of the time. The Emperor Theodosius I, on
four sides of the obelisk, is watching the
erection of it, or a chariot race, receiving
homage from slaves or preparing a wreath for the
winner of the race.
Burma
Sutun
(The Serpentine Column)
After defeating
the Persians at the battles of Salamis (480 BC)
and Plataea (479 BC), the 31 Greek cities, by
melting all the spoils that they obtained, made a
huge bronze incense burner with three entwined
serpents to be erected in front of the Apollo
Temple in Delphi. Originally it was 8 m / 26.3 ft
high, but today it is only 5.30 m / 17.4 ft.
This column was
brought here from Delphi by Constantine I in 4C
AD. By looking at the records, it is possible to
understand that it was standing at its place
until the 16C. However it is not known what
happened to the serpent heads after the 16C.
Orme
Sutun
(The Constantine Column)
Unlike the
Egyptian Obelisk, this is not a monolith but a
column built of stones. Who erected it and when
it was built are not known. According to the
inscriptions, it was renovated and restored to
have a more beautiful appearance by Constantine
VII Porphyrogenitus and his son Romanus II in the
10C AD. The original column should have been from
the 4C or 5C AD.
It is 32 m / 105
ft high and after three steps comes the marble
base at the bottom. It is also thought that all
the surfaces of the column were covered with
bronze relief pieces which probably were
plundered during the 4th Crusade in 1204, and
today it is possible to find some of these pieces
used in the decoration of St. Mark Square in
Venice.
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| SULTAN
AHMET CAMISI (BLUE MOSQUE) |
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| Built by Sultan Ahmet I as
a part of a large complex, among the Turkish
people it is called Sultan Ahmet Mosque. However,
tourists fascinated with the beautiful blue tiles
always remember it as the Blue Mosque. The
complex consisted of a mosque, tombs, medreses,
fountains, a health center, kitchens, shops, a
bath, rooms, houses and storehouses. A 19-year-old Sultan
started digging ceremoniously in the presence of
high officials until he was tired. Thus began the
construction in 1609 which continued until it was
finished in 1616. An interesting fact about
Sultan Ahmet is that he ascended to the throne at
the age of 14 as the 14th ruler and died only 14
years later. Being close to the Topkapi Palace,
Sultan Ahmet Mosque was regarded as the Supreme
Imperial Mosque in Istanbul. Even though the
palace was left and the sultan moved to the
Dolmabahce Palace, Sultan Ahmet Mosque shared
this pride with the Suleymaniye Mosque.
The architect was
one of the apprentices of Sinan, Sedefkar Mehmet
Aga. He designed one of the last examples of the
classical period's architectural style.
The mosque is
situated in a wide courtyard which has five
gates. There is an inner courtyard next to the
mosque with three entrances. The inner courtyard
is surrounded by porticos consisting of 26
columns and 30 domes. The sadirvan in the middle
is symbolic, because the actual ones are outside
on the walls of the inner courtyard. There are
three entrances to the main building, one from
the inner courtyard and two from both sides of
the building. There are four minarets at the
corners of the mosque having three serefes
each. The two minarets at the far corners of the
courtyard have two serefes each. There are six
minarets in all, each of which is fluted.
The interior of
the mosque is a square with a width of 51.65 m /
170 ft and a length of 53.40 m / 175 ft covered
by a dome. The main dome rests on four
semi-arches and four pendentives. The diameter of
the dome is 22.40 m / 73.5 ft and the height is
43 m / 141 ft. The four piers carrying the dome
are called elephant legs as each has a diameter
of 5 m / 16.4 ft.
There are 260
windows which do not have original stained
glasses any longer. The walls all along the
galleries are covered with 21 thousand 17C Iznik
tiles having many flower motifs in a dominant
blue color.
Sound-and-light show
On summer
evenings, generally beginning at 8:00 p.m., a
sound-and-light show, which is worth seeing, is
presented between the Blue Mosque and the Hagia
Sophia. The languages of the show Turkish,
English, French and German rotate daily with one
each night.
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| Sultan Ahmet
Camisi (Blue Mosque),
17C, Istanbul |
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| Sultan Ahmet
Camisi (Blue Mosque),
17C, Istanbul |
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| AYASOFYA
(HAGIA SOPHIA) |
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| The Hagia Sophia was
probably the largest building on the world's
surface, barring the Egyptian Pyramids, or the
Great Wall of China. For many centuries it was
the largest church and today is the fourth
largest in the world after St. Paul's in London,
St. Peter's in Rome and the Duomo in Milan. The
great Ottoman architect Sinan, in his
autobiography, says that he devoted his lifetime
in the attempt to surpass its technical
achievements. It was dedicated to the Hagia Sophia
which means the Divine Wisdom, an attribute of
Christ.
Today's Hagia
Sophia is the third building built at the same
place. The first one was a basilica with a wooden
roof and was built in 390 AD. This original
church Megale Ecclesia (Great Church) was burned
down in a rumpus in 404. Theodosius replaced it
with a massive basilica which was burned down in
the Nika Revolt against Justinian in 532.
Justinian began rebuilding the Hagia Sophia in
the same year. The architects were two Anatolian
geniuses, Anthemius of Tralles, an engineer and a
mathematician and Isidorus of Miletus, an
architect. They started collecting materials from
all over the empire. In the construction ten
thousand workers worked under the supervision of
one hundred master builders.
Justinian reopened
it in 537 entering the Hagia Sophia with the
words "Solomon, I have surpassed you!".
Because the
building is on a fault line in an earthquake zone
and the city passed through many riots and fires,
the Hagia Sophia was destroyed and underwent
restorations several times.
Throughout
Byzantine history, the Hagia Sophia played an
important role as emperors were crowned and
various victories were celebrated in this
remarkable building. The Hagia Sophia even gave
refuge to criminals.
Another major
event during the Byzantine period was the removal
of all religious images from the church in the
iconoclastic period. During the Fourth Crusade in
1204, the church was pillaged and some disgusting
events took place in the Hagia Sophia. After
conquering Constantinople in 1453, Sultan Mehmet
immediately went to the Hagia Sophia and ordered
that it be converted into a mosque. This was done
by adding the Islamic elements such as minarets,
the mihrab and the minber all of which were
appropriately positioned to face toward Mecca, 10
degrees south of the main axis of the building.
The architect Sinan was also assigned to make
some restorations and add Islamic elements to the
building. Buttresses were added in the Ottoman
period. Two huge marble jars were brought from
Pergamum in the 16C and probably used to keep oil
for candles. The eight round wooden plaques at
gallery level are fine examples for Islamic
calligraphy. The names painted on these plaques
are Allah, Prophet Mohammed, the first four
Caliphs Ebubekir, Omer, Osman and Ali, and the
two grandsons of Mohammed, Hasan and Huseyin.
In time Ayasofya
became a complex consisting of tombs, a fountain,
libraries, etc. It has been thought that when
Turks converted the church into a mosque, all the
pictures were covered which is not correct.
According to the narration of travelers, pictures
were still standing but figures' faces were
covered.
Ayasofya was used
as a church for 916 years and as a mosque for 481
years. In 1934, by the order of Mustafa Kemal
Ataturk, it was made a museum and has since been
open to visitors.
Architecture
The Hagia Sophia
has a classical basilica plan and the main ground
plan of the building is a rectangle, 70 m / 230
ft in width and 75 m / 246 ft in length. The
central space of the Hagia Sophia is divided on
both sides from the side aisles by four big piers
and 107 columns (40 downstairs, 67 upstairs)
between them. The space is covered with a huge
dome which is 55.60 m / 182 ft high. The dome,
due to earthquakes and restorations, is slightly
elliptical with a diameter of 31.20 m / 102 ft on
one axis and 32.80 m / 107.60 ft on the other.
Mosaics
Most of the
mosaics are from periods after the iconoclastic
period. Whitewash or plasters either of the
iconoclastic or the Islamic period helped to
protect the mosaics. Mosaics of major importance
are as follows:
In the inner
narthex above the main entrance, also called
the Imperial Gate, there is a 10C mosaic
depicting Jesus as pantocrator seated upon a
jeweled throne, dressed like an empire, and
making a gesture of blessing with his right hand.
In his left hand he is holding a book with an
inscription of these words: "Peace with you,
I am the light of the world." On both sides
of Jesus Christ are two medallions. The Virgin
Mary on the left and an angel with a staff on the
right. Emperor Leo VI is depicted kneeling in
front of Jesus.
On the pendentives
are depicted winged angels with covered
faces. The ones in west pendentives are
imitations in paint from Fossati's restoration.
Above the main
apse is the mosaic depicting the Virgin Mary
with the infant Jesus. She is sitting on a bench
with her feet resting on a stool. Her right hand
is on her son's shoulder and her left upon his
knee. Jesus is raising his right hand in blessing
and holding a scroll in his left hand.
The galleries;
the 13C mosaic of the Deesis scene, Jesus
as the pantocrator flanked by the Virgin Mary and
Saint John the Baptist who are shown interceding
with him on behalf of mankind.
At the far end of
the last bay in the south gallery is a mosaic
showing Christ enthroned with his right hand in
the gesture of benediction and the book of
Gospels in his left hand. On the left is the
figure of the 11C Byzantine Emperor Constantine
IX Monomachus offering a money bag and Empress
Zoë holding a scroll on the right. The emperor's
face in the mosaic was changed each time Zoë
changed her husband. Constantine IX was Zoë's
third husband.
To the right of
the mosaic of Zoë there is a 12C mosaic showing
the Virgin Mary with the infant Jesus flanked by
Emperor John II Comnenus offering a bag of gold
and red-haired Empress Eirene holding a scroll.
At the extension of the mosaic on the side wall
is the figure of Prince Alexius.
At the end of
the inner narthex, before going out to the
courtyard (today's exit) stands the 10C beautiful
mosaic: The Virgin Mary with the infant Jesus in
her lap, on one side Emperor Constantine offering
a small model of the city as he is accepted as
the founder, on the other side Emperor Justinian
offering the model of the Hagia Sophia as the
emperor who had it built.
Iconoclasm (726-843 AD)
Iconoclasm, an
ancient Greek word that means
"image-breaking," refers to the
religious doctrine that forbade the veneration of
images (icons) of Christ and the saints in
Christian churches.
In 726 AD, Emperor
Leo III ordered the image of Christ at the Chalke
Palace in Constantinople to be destroyed. In the
following years, other measures were taken to
suppress the veneration of images.
Empress Theodora,
however, presided over the restoration of icon
veneration in 843 AD, an event still celebrated
by the Orthodox Church as the Triumph of
Orthodoxy.
The iconoclastic
movement was motivated by a variety of factors
that possibly included Moslem influences, as well
as the concern that the cult of icons was a form
of idolatry. The Council of Nicaea also specified
that images should be venerated but not
worshipped, since worship belongs to God alone
and the worship of icons would mean idolatry.
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Ayasofya (The
Hagia Sophia), 6C AD,
Byzantine period, Istanbul
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| Hagia Sophia,
6C AD, Istanbul |
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| Mosaic in Hagia
Sophia, 10C AD |
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| YEREBATAN
SARAYI |
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| Istanbul was one of the most often
besieged cities in the world and has always
needed permanent water supplies. And as a result
many underground cisterns were built during the
Byzantine Empire. Water was brought to these big
reservoirs from far away sources through
aqueducts. It is still possible to see remains of
a large aqueduct in Unkapani. This is called
Bozdogan Kemeri (Aqueduct of Valens) and was
built in 375 AD by the Emperor Valens. Because
Turks have always preferred running water, after
capturing the city from the Byzantines, they did
not use cisterns properly. Most of them were
usually converted into either small bazaars or
storehouses. The largest and most ornate of these
cisterns is Yerebatan Sarayi. In its
construction, columns and capitals of earlier
temples were used and this provides a very
decorative appearance. This is why it is called saray
which means "palace" in Turkish. Yerebatan Sarayi was dug
and built probably after 542 by Emperor Justinian
I. There are 336 columns most of which are topped
with Byzantine Corinthian capitals. The cistern
is 70 m / 230 ft wide and 140 m / 460 ft long.
Between 1985-1988,
the Municipality of Istanbul cleaned and restored
it thoroughly and built a wooden walkway between
the columns. In addition to that there are
special effects presented by a light and sound
show. By looking at the water level marks on the
plaster walls which reach the height of the
capitals, it is possible to understand that the
cistern was very full in times gone by.
Two Medusa heads
were used to form bases for two columns in a far
corner of the cistern. The position in which they
were placed suggests that the people who put them
there were Christians and did not want to revere
a god of a pagan period. The water inside the
underground cistern is collected rain water. The
carp in the water are decorative and an
incidental protection against pollution. Some
people even think that the Byzantines originally
also raised fish in the cistern.
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| Yerebatan Sarayi
(Basilica Cistern), 6C
AD, Istanbul |
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| TOPKAPI
SARAYI (TOPKAPI PALACE) |
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| The Topkapi Sarayi was the
second palace in Istanbul after the conquest. The
first was in the Bayezit area and it was called
the Old Palace after the construction of Topkapi.
Called the New Palace initially it was named as
the Topkapi Palace after a summer palace near the
sea at Sarayburnu in the 19C. The construction of the
Topkapi Palace, including the walls, was
completed between 1465 and 1478. However,
different sultans having ascended to the throne
added parts to the palace which now gives the
appearance of a lack of unity and style. The
changes were made for reasons of practicality, to
commemorate victorious campaigns or to repair
damage caused by earthquakes and fire.
The Topkapi Palace
had never been static but was always in the
process of organic development with the
influences of the time. The first of these
influences was the parallelism between the palace
and the empire. As the empire became larger, the
palace was likewise enlarged. The second is that
as the sultans felt insecure and withdrew
themselves behind the walls removed from nature,
there was an attempt to bring nature inside the
walls in the form of miniatures, tiles and
suchlike.
If late Ottoman
period palaces are excluded, only the Topkapi
Palace survived from the glory days of the great
Ottoman Empire, which implies that palaces for
the Ottomans were something different than the
ones we know today. There is a kind of humble
simplicity and practicality in the Ottoman
palaces.
The Topkapi Sarayi
was a city-palace with a population of
approximately 4,000 people. It covers an area of
70 hectares / 173 acres. It housed all the
Ottoman sultans from Sultan Mehmet II to
Abdulmecit, nearly 400 years and 25 sultans. In
1924 it was made into a museum.
The palace was
mainly divided into two sections, Birun and
Enderun. Birun was the outer palace and
Enderun the inner. Out of four consecutive
courtyards of the palace the first two are Birun.
Enderun, the inner palace, consisted of the third
and fourth courtyards with the harem.
The first
courtyard which was open to the public started
after the Bab-i Humayun (Imperial Gate).
This was the service area of the palace
consisting of a hospital (with a capacity of 120
beds), a bakery, an arsenal, the mint, storage
places for various things and some dormitories.
This courtyard acted something like a city
center.
Topkapi Palace, as
well as being the imperial residence of the
sultan, his court and harem, was also the seat of
government for the Ottoman Empire, Divan. The
second courtyard, also called Alay Meydani
(Procession Square), which started after the Babusselam
(Gate of Peace), was the seat of the Divan and
open to anyone who had business with the Divan.
This was the administration center. The Divan met
four times a week. In the earlier years the
sultan would be present at these council
meetings, but later on, he would sit behind a
latticed grille placed in the wall and listen to
the proceedings from there. The Council never
knew whether or not the sultan was actually
present and listening to them unless he decided
to speak himself. The Divan consisted of two
rooms: the Office of the Grand Vizier and the
Public Records Office, the Tower of Justice.
In addition to the
Divan there were also the privy stables and
kitchens. The kitchens consist of a series of ten
large rooms with domes and dome-like chimneys. In
these kitchens in those times they cooked for
about 4,000 people. The kitchens were used
separately for different people, because
different dishes for different classes had to be
prepared.
In the kitchens
today, a collection of Chinese Porcelain which
are accepted as the third most valuable in the
world, are on display together with authentic
kitchen utensils as well as both Turkish and
Japanese Porcelain.
Just before
entering the third courtyard, in front of the
third gate, the Babussaade (Gate of
Felicity) or the Akagalar (White Eunuchs)
Gate is the place where the throne was placed for
all kinds of occasions, such as religious
holidays, welcoming foreign ambassadors and
funerals. Payment of the Yeniceri salaries
took place there too as well as the handing over
of the sancak, the standard or the flag of
the Caliph by the sultan.
The Enderun, inner
palace, started after the Babussaade and was
surrounded by the quarters of the inner palace
boys who were in service to the sultan and the
palace. The first building after entering into
the third courtyard is Arz Odasi, the
Audience Hall. Many important ceremonies also
took place there. Foreign ambassadors and results
of Divan meetings were presented to the sultan in
this chamber.
In the middle of
the courtyard is the library of Sultan Ahmet III.
On the right is a section in which sultans'
costumes are shown. Next to this is the treasury
section where many precious objects are
displayed. Among these the Kasikci Diamond (the
Spoonmaker's Diamond) and the Topkapi Hanceri (the
Topkapi Dagger) are the most precious. The
Kasikci Diamond is 86 carats,
"drop-shaped", faceted and surrounded
by 49 large diamonds. The Topkapi Dagger, a
beautiful dagger ornamented with valuable emerald
pieces was planned to be sent to Nadir Shah of
Iran as a present, but when it was on the way it
was heard that Nadir had been assassinated and so
it was taken back to the palace treasury. Relics
including a hand, arm and skull bones belonging
to John the Baptist are also on display in the
treasury section.
From the
right-hand corner to the left in this courtyard
are the sections of miniatures, calligraphy,
portraits of sultans, clocks and holy relics of
Islam. The holy relics are personal belongings of
the Prophet Mohammed (a mantle, sword, seal,
tooth, beard and footprints) and Caliphs, Koran
scripts, religious books and framed inscriptions.
In the fourth
courtyard there are pavilions some facing the
Marmara Sea and others facing the Golden Horn.
Life at the Court
The focal point of
the court was the sultan, of course. The sultan's
daily life was very simple. In addition to daily
regular activities, sultans, in order to broaden
their perspectives, gathered scholars, poets,
artists and historians at the palace. Most of the
sultans in the Ottoman Empire united many skills
in themselves. They commissioned new works,
manuscripts and bindings, were ardent readers,
competent calligraphers, poets, archers, riders, cirit
(javelin) players, hunters, composers, etc.
In daily life at
the palace, silence was dominant. Hundreds of
people tried not to meet the sultan unless they
needed to and in keeping voices down, it was even
said that, people of the court sometimes
developed a body language system among
themselves.
The Harem
The concept of the
harem has provoked much speculation.
Curiosity about the unknown and inaccessible
inspired highly imaginative literature among the
people of the western world. People always
basically thought that in a harem there were
hundreds of beautiful girls and a sultan who had
fun with all of them. This is generally not
correct as the sultan could not, perhaps
unfortunately for him, just leap into a roomful
of beauties and have his way. There were certain
rules with life in the Harem.
The word harem
which in Arabic means "forbidden"
refers to the private sector of a Moslem
household in which women live and work; the term
is also used for women dwelling there. In
traditional Moslem society the privacy of the
household was universally observed and
respectable women did not socialize with men to
whom they were not married or related. Because
the establishment of a formal harem was an
expense beyond the means of the poor, the
practice was limited to elite groups, usually in
urban settings. Since Islamic law allowed Moslems
to have a maximum of four wives, in a harem there
would be up to four wives and numerous concubines
and servants. Having a harem, in general, was
traditionally a mark of wealth and power. Though
the women of the harems might never leave its
confines, their influence was frequently of key
importance to political and economic affairs of
the household, with each woman seeking to promote
the interests of her own children.
The most famous
harems were those of the sultans of the Ottoman
Empire. The harems of the Ottoman Turkish rulers
were elaborate structures concealed behind palace
walls, in which lived hundreds of women who were
married, related to, or owned by the head of the
household.
The Harem of the Sultan
The idea of the
harem came to the Ottoman sultans from the
Byzantines. Before coming to Anatolia, Turks did
not have harems. After the conquest of Istanbul,
sultans built the Topkapi Palace step by step.
Parallel to it, a harem was also begun.
Eventually it became a big complex consisting of
a few hundred rooms. The harem was not just a
prison full of women kept for the sultan's
pleasure. It was his family quarters. Security in
the harem was provided by black eunuchs. Valide
Sultan (Queen Mother) was the head of the
harem. She had enormous influence on everything
that took place there and frequently on her son
too.
Young and
beautiful girls of the harem were either
purchased by the palace or presented to the
sultan as gifts from dignitaries or sultan's
family. When these girls entered the harem, they
were thoroughly assessed.
Among the girls
there were mainly four different classes: Odalik
(servant), Gedikli (sultan's personal
servants; there were only twelve of them), Ikbal
or Gozde (those were Favorites who are
said to have had affairs with the sultan), Kadin
or Haseki Sultan (wives giving
children to the sultan). When the Haseki Sultan's
son ascended to the throne, she was promoted to
Valide Sultan. She was the most important woman.
After her, in order of importance came the
sultan's daughters. Then came the first four
wives of the sultan who gave birth to children.
Their degree of importance was in the order in
which their sons were born. They had conjugal
rights and if the sultan did not sleep with them
on two consecutive Friday nights, they could
consider themselves divorced. They had their own
apartments. The Favorites also had their own
apartments. But others slept in dormitories.
Girls were trained
according to their talents in playing a musical
instrument, singing, dancing, writing, embroidery
and sewing. Many parents longed for their
daughters to be chosen for the Harem.
It should not be
thought that women never went out. They could
visit their families or just go for drives in
covered carriages from which they could see out
behind the veils and curtained windows. They
could also organize parties up on the Bosphorus
or along the Golden Horn.
Kizlar Agasi
(Chief Black Eunuch) had the biggest
responsibility and was the only one who knew all
the secret desires of the sultan. Eunuchs, owing
to different methods used for castration, were
checked regularly by doctors to make sure they
remained eunuchs.
When a sultan
died, the new sultan would bring his new harem
which meant that the former harem was dispersed.
Some were sent to the old palace, some stayed as
teachers or some older ones were pensioned off.
Yeniceriler (Janissaries)
Janissaries
(Turkish yeni is new and ceri is a
soldier), standing Ottoman Turkish army, were
organized by Murat I. Ottoman armies had
previously been composed of Turkoman tribal
levies, who were loyal to their clan leaders, but
as the Ottoman polity acquired the
characteristics of a state, it became necessary
to have paid troops loyal only to the sultan.
Therefore, the system of impressing Christian
youths (devsirme) was instituted and having been
converted to Islam and given the finest training,
they became the elite of the army. Special laws
regulated their daily life cutting them off from
civil society such as being forbidden to marry.
Devotion to such discipline made the Janissaries
the scourge of Europe. These standards, however,
changed with time; recruitment became lax
(Moslems were admitted, too) and because of the
privileges Janissaries enjoyed, their numbers
swelled from about 20,000 in 1574 to some 135,000
in 1826. To supplement their salaries, the
Janissaries began to pursue various trades and
established strong links with civil society, thus
undermining their loyalty to the ruler. In time
they became kingmakers and the allies of
conservative forces, opposing all reform and
refusing to allow the army to be modernized. When
they revolted in 1826, Sultan Mahmut II dissolved
the corps by proclamation, putting all opposition
down by force. Thousands were killed and others
banished, but most were simply absorbed into the
general population.
Tugra (Monogram of a sultan)
Each sultan had a
personal emblem called a tugra, a
calligraphic arrangement of the letters of his
name and titles. They were used at the top of
imperial decrees or in the inscriptions of
buildings (gates, mosques, palaces, fountains
etc.).
Sultans and the Caliphate
The Caliphate is
the office and realm of the caliph as supreme
leader of the Moslem community as successor of
the Prophet Mohammed. Under Mohammed the Moslem
state was a theocracy, with the Seriat, the
religious and moral principles of Islam, as the
law of the land. The Caliphs, Mohammed's
successors, were both secular and religious
leaders. They were not empowered, however, to
promulgate dogma, because it was considered that
the revelation of the faith had been completed by
Mohammed.
In 1517, when
Sultan Selim I captured Cairo, he also added the
title of caliph to that of sultan. After that,
all Ottoman sultans automatically became caliphs
when they ascended to the throne.
The title held
little significance for the Ottoman sultans until
their empire began to decline. In the 19C, with
the advent of Christian powers in the Near East,
the sultan began to emphasize his role as caliph
in an effort to gain the support of Moslems
living outside his realm. The Ottoman Empire
collapsed during World War I. After the war,
Turkish nationalists deposed the sultan and the
Caliphate was finally abolished in 1924 by the
Turkish Grand National Assembly.
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| Babusselam (Gate
of Peace), Topkapi Palace, Istanbul |
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| Miniature
depicting the Sultan eating his meal |
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| Miniature
depicting musicians in the Harem |
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| SULEYMANIYE
MOSQUE |
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| Suleymaniye, rather than a mosque,
is an important historical symbol for the Turks.
It unites Sinan with Suleyman, one representing
the best of the arts and the other most powerful
of political strength. Like other works of the time,
Suleymaniye is not only a mosque but a huge
complex. It is a work which typifies the Ottoman
Empire at its peak. Its name, Suleymaniye,
derives from the builder's name, Kanuni Sultan
Suleyman (Lawgiver), Sultan Suleyman I the
Magnificent. The architect was the greatest of
Ottoman architects, the incomparable Sinan.
The Suleymaniye
mosque was built between 1550-1557. A spacious
courtyard surrounds the mosque. Similar to the
Sultan Ahmet Mosque, there is another inner
courtyard surrounded by porticos with 28 domes
supported by 24 columns. This courtyard is a
little smaller than the main building. In the
middle is located a sadirvan. In the four corners
of the inner courtyard stand four minarets having
a total of ten serefes.
The interior of
the mosque is rectangular in plan, 61 m / 200 ft
in width and 70 m / 230 ft in length. The main
section is covered by a huge dome with a diameter
of 27.5 m / 90 ft and a height of 47 m / 154 ft.
The dome is held by four piers and supported by
two semi-domes in the E and W. The transition to
the main dome is provided by pendentives.
The acoustics were
one of the distinctive features of the building
which were achieved by placing 64 pots in
different places in the walls and the floor.
Except for those above the mihrab, the stained
glass is not original. When the mosque was built
there were 4,000 oil candles, the smoke from
which could have endangered the paintings on the
walls. The architect avoided this, however by
creating a system for the circulation of air
inside the building. Sultan Suleyman and Sinan
are buried in their tombs in the Suleymaniye
complex.
Sinan (c.1491-1588)
He was born in the
village of Agirnas in Kayseri probably in a
Christian family. At the age of about twenty, he
was levied for the service of the sultan. After
being educated in the palace school, he joined
some of Sultan Suleyman's campaigns. His
promotion in the Ottoman army was parallel to his
success in architecture and carpentry. At the age
of 48, he was appointed Mimarbasi, Chief
of the Imperial Architects, a post he held for
half a century during the reign of three
different sultans; Suleyman I, Selim II and Murat
III.
His creativity was
born of sensitivity to the cultural heritage and
his power of identifying its dynamic points and
taking them to their ultimate conclusion. He was
not just an architect but an equally accomplished
engineer, urban planner and administrator. In his
time, Istanbul was one of the world's largest
cities with all the complex problems of a large
urban population. When Sinan built, he took into
consideration each structure's relationship with
its environment and also estimated conceivable
future difficulties that might arise.
What were his
visual sources? Seljuk architecture, churches
carved in solid rock in Cappadocia, domed
churches of Byzantium and being well-traveled,
his accumulated observations. He was constantly
driven by the desire to learn to renew himself,
to establish links between the past, present and
future and to formulate reliable principles.
Sinan retained this characteristic to the end of
his life.
The total number
of his works was 477 consisting of mosques,
mescits, medreses, tombs, public kitchens,
hospitals, aqueducts, palaces, storehouses,
hamams and bridges. As an architect who built so
many works, Sinan never repeated himself, an
important feature and for him a remarkable
achievement. A major aspect of his talent was the
ability to transfer any possible architectural
problems into esthetic accomplishments.
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| Suleymaniye
Camisi (Mosque), 16C
Ottoman period, Istanbul |
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| KAPALI CARSI (GRAND
BAZAAR) |
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| During the
Byzantine period the area of the Grand Bazaar was
a trade center. After the Turks came to Istanbul,
two bedestens which formed the essence of today's
Grand Bazaar were built between 1455-1461 by
Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror in an attempt to
enrich the economic life in the city. Later on as
people needed more places for their trade, they
also added parts outside these bedestens. In time
the Grand Bazaar was formed. Throughout the Ottoman
period, the bazaar underwent earthquakes and
fires and was restored several times.
Today, shops
selling the same kind of merchandise tend to be
congregated in their own streets or in hans
as this was originally the Ottoman system. In
addition to two bedestens there are also 13 hans
in the Grand Bazaar.
With 18 entrances
and more than four thousand shops it is one of
the greatest bazaars in the World. The atmosphere
of the Grand Bazaar is very interesting for
tourists and has consequently become a very
popular place for foreign visitors.
It is open during
working hours on weekdays, closing earlier on
Saturdays, while on Sundays and religious
holidays it is closed.
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| Grand Bazaar,
Istanbul |
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| MISIR CARSISI
(EGYPTIAN BAZAAR) |
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| It was built in
1664 as a part of the Yeni Cami complex which is
located next to it. Misir in Turkish means Egypt
and it is called the Egyptian Bazaar because the
shopkeepers used to sell spices and herbs which
were brought from or through Egypt. During the
Ottoman period it was known as a place where
shops sold only spices. Today there are only a
few spice and herb specialists. The rest sell
dried fruit, borek, basket work, jewelry,
haberdashery, drapery and suchlike. The bazaar has an
"L" shape with six gates. Similar to
the Grand Bazaar, it is open on weekdays and only
half a day on Saturdays.
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| Copyright © 1997 Serif Yenen All rights reserved. NO
part of the information and materials in this web
site may be reproduced or transmitted in any form
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including copying, recording and storing in any
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written permission from Serif Yenen Disclaimer
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site as complete and as accurate as possible,
this text should only be used as a general guide
and not as an original source of information.
Comments, suggestions or corrections relating to
possible errors both typographical and in terms
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Last updated February 02, 2000
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